John Pappan and Jim Johnston at Rankin Inlet and Baker Lake August 2005
Report Prepared by Jim Johnston
Click here to see the photo gallery of this trip
Prelude to the trip
John Pappan and I were assigned by the Nunavut Teaching Committee to travel to Rankin Inlet and Baker Lake of the Kivalliq Region of Nunavut in August, 2005. This Region, one of three of the Nunavut Territory, is on the northwestern side of Hudson Bay and has seven settlements, or hamlets as they are termed, of which these are two. The dates chosen for the trip were August 4th through the 22nd. John had to schedule the trip with the Omaha school's summer vacation where he is employed, and had to return for work on August 23rd.
In phone calls
with Jennifer Anawak in Rankin Inlet prior to our departure, we learned
that Baha'is are viewed with prejudice as a result of attitudes held
by the Catholic and Anglican clergy against the Faith. For example,
a public meeting was held when Hand of the Cause of God Amatu'l-Bahá
Rúhíyyih Khánum visited there in the '80s, and
an Anglican priest, when interviewed on the local radio about the event,
termed the Baha'is as misguided people who were "devil worshipers"
and advised everyone to stay away.
We also talked with Margaret Niego, our contact at Baker Lake, and she
also said that making friends and being ourselves was the best way to
present the Faith. Also we felt that the best way we could serve was
to do only what our hosts asked us to do, so we did not have a set agenda
when we left.
The influence of the Catholic and Anglican Churches is considerable in all of Nunavut, but especially so in Kivalliq. In 1957 The Inuit people were still nomads living off the land and faced a terrible calamity when their main source of subsistence, the caribou, ceased their customary migratory routes causing "the starvations" and many died. The government dispatched the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to bring the people to the sparsely settled hamlets where food could be shipped in, and it was then that these hamlets became the population centers that they are today. But this was done at the price that the Inuit had to give up their Shamanistic religion and adopt the white man's Christianity. When faced either with starvation or adopting the ways of white man, they chose the latter. The young were taken from their parents and forced to live in boarding schools where a new way of life and religion was forced upon them, as was the case with most of the Native peoples of North America.
Winnipeg
When we left Chicago arrangements had not been made with Winnipeg Baha'is to provide hospitality for us and we had thought we'd get a hotel room near the airport. It was very surprising then, that as we walked through the door to the airport lobby, we saw a young man holding up a copy of Ruhi Book One! I went up to him and acknowledged that he was Baha'i, and to me he said, "Are you John or Jim?" He introduced himself as Mead Simon, and said that he had been asked by a Winnipeg Baha'i who was out of town and had been in contact with the Nunavut Teaching Committee, to meet two travel teachers at the airport on their way to Rankin Inlet and put them up for the night!
After dinner and a visit to the Thunderbird House, a Native American center in Winnipeg, Mead, his wife Marielle, John and I prayed for the success of our teaching efforts in Rankin Inlet and Baker Lake. Also, before we went to the departure gate the next morning, we stopped at the airport's chapel where we prayed for protection and the success of our efforts in the coming days.
Our flight to Rankin Inlet was on a 737 of which the last third of the plane was for passengers seating only 48. The rest of the plane was for cargo as the hamlets in Nunavut are totally dependent on goods shipped via air. It is 1100 miles from Winnipeg to Rankin which is a main distribution center for vital supplies in western Nunavut.
On the flight I was able to get some really good photos looking down on the boreal forest as the plane made its way to Hudson Bay and then north to Rankin. The landscape looked like watercolor bubble paintings with its land forms and lakes. Click here for photos taken from the air.
Rankin Inlet August 5 - 13
We landed in Rankin Inlet, Nunavut's second largest hamlet (population 2200), on time. Rankin's runway is one of only two in the entire province long enough to accommodate jets, the other being at Iqaluit. Click here for photos .
We were met by the hamlet's only two Baha'is, Gerry Pfluger and her daughter Jen (Jennifer) Anawak. We went to Anawak's home, newly constructed and finished earlier this year and settled in our accommodations. We were introduced to the Anawaks as they came in, Aiden aged 5, Jimmy aged 9 and husband Jerry who has a job at the local junior college as a computer technician. Jen also works as a teacher's aid at the elementary school. Click here for photos of of our hosts with us.
Housing is a real problem both here and Baker Lake, and it's quite common to have a large extended family, or more than one family living together in one house. Every year more houses are built during the short building season, and there was a new single family unit underway next door, and an apartment building under construction very close by. The architecture was especially noted by me, raised stilt truss supports going down to the frozen tundra with no footings, very thick insulated walls, hot water radiant heat in-floor coils, and metal siding and roof. Of course being so close to the arctic circle there is no air conditioning, yet due to the latent heat build up due to the super thick walls insulated floors and roofs, it was common to open the windows to cool down, especially at night during this time of year.
Due to their family situations and respect for their Inuit non-Baha'i spouses, Jen and Gerry have not insisted on having Baha'i functions at their homes. Also due to the prejudice against the Faith, they have been walking a very fine line when it comes to teaching, and as everyone in Rankin Inlet knows that they are Baha'is, they are trying to "appear as normal as possible." John and I were the first outside Baha'is to visit in a long time, and Jen and Gerry really appreciated our coming to provide them much needed moral support.
We met Mike Kusugak for the first time when he and Gerry came over for dinner, the first of many that we would share for the next week. After dinner Jerry's cousin Junior came over and all the Anawaks plus John and I piled into the Jeep Cherokee for a trip out on the land over a gravel road.
We went about 10 kilometers west to an ancient village site (5000 years old) on the Ijiraliq (Meliadine) River. The stones forming the old tent rings are still intact as are piled rocks caches used as food storage as well as burials. The river is free flowing and the char run in its rapids. We also took in an authentic sod house, used as a summer dwelling until not too long ago, complete with its caribou hide roof. Although it was 9:00 pm, the arctic sun was still out high in the horizon, and wouldn't set for another hour or so.
The tundra is the epitome of wide open spaces. It is a treeless expanse of soggy water soaked earth covered with lichen, low conifer like bushes called willows which are really small trees, flowering plants, immense rock formations, rock fields and fresh water ponds, which are of melted snow that can't seep into the ground as the permafrost never melts. These ponds are where the dreaded mosquitoes and black flies breed. They can be very annoying and in some cases deadly, especially on windless days.
On the way back,
we stopped to see an inuksuit and heard what we thought was the crying
of an arctic fox. Click
here for photos of our first trip on the tundra.
On Saturday (August 6) we all joined Gerry and Mike at the local co-op
for breakfast, the we stopped by a gift shop and bought souvenirs and
then called on Mike's brother Lorne Kusugak, who is the Hamlet's mayor.
We were introduced as friends visiting for the south, and although it
wasn't mentioned that we were Baha'is, they knew that we were. The Kusugak
Family is large, ten siblings with Mike being the oldest. Its roots
were set in the traditional nomadic Inuit way of life. Mike was born
in an Igloo on the land in 1948.
Michael Kusugak is a well respected author, storyteller, world traveler, and the former manager of the regional office of the department of Culture and Communications for the Northwest Territories before Nunavut was established in 1999. He is also a licensed pilot for both fixed wing aircraft and helicopters. He has authored a series of children's books and has traveled extensively throughout the Americas and Europe as a guest lecturer speaking of the Inuit way of life, both in former times and now. As with many Native People, his experience of assimilation to a dominate culture is a story in itself. He says that he's erased from his mind the Catholic boarding school experience, and professes no religion. He is sympathetic to the Baha'is however, for they were the only ones that didn't try and convert him. Both John and I realized that we must befriend him in a good way. And both of us, individually had opportunities to this in the coming days.
Saturday evening we had a caribou stew dinner at the Anawaks with all eight of us. Jerry "caught" the caribou the week before while out on the land, skinned it on site, and brought the meat back home to the freezer. After dinner we had Mike autograph his books that John and I purchased at the souvenir shop earlier, and I gave him one of my art prints titled 'The Oneness of Mankind.' He was genuinely touched, and he asked me to autograph it for him. I then gave a print titled 'The Human Family' to Jen and she asked that I autograph it also.
On Sunday, August
7th John and I treated everyone to a brunch at the Siniktarvik Hotel.
We talked a little about the Faith and the teachings of progressive
revelation which Jerry Anawak understood. Jen said that this was a milestone
for him for he never talked about the Faith before.
Jerry then took us on a tour of Rankin Inlet, and it only took a half an hour to see everything. The hamlet's center had, wide unpaved streets and a constant flurry of coming and going. The main destination any time on any day is the Northern Store and the Quick Stop fast food pizzeria. It's a great place to people watch: mothers with amautis, which are parkas with babies carried in the hood, sometimes even worn by fathers. There's a constant stream of people here, and the low buildings and the dirt streets with all these people remind you of a western frontier town, just as Linda Covey termed Iqaluit a year ago. Everyone gets around in the warm weather with four wheel drive all terrain vehicles (ATV's) and as Honda is the most common of the manufactures, they are simply called "hondas." Click here for scenes of Rankin Inlet.
We learned that Ranlin does not, on the surface anyway, have a drug or alcohol problem, and teenage suicides are low. There's only one place alcohol is available is at a fraternal lodge, and only on certain days.
Later, while out photographing that afternoon, I got caught in one of the sudden short rain squalls that often appear out of nowhere and encountered the infamous sideways wind that come with them.
The next day, Monday, Jen then suggested that we contact Jerry's Grandfather, Olie Ittinuar, who owns a boat, about taking us to Marble Island 70 kilometers east of Rankin on the Bay. Arrangements were made and we met at the inlet harbor soon after, so as to take advantage of the tides. Olie had his 18 year old adopted daughter Evan as his first mate and she was assisted by her cousin Silu. Upon boarding the boat Olie directed us to don survival jackets.
The boat, a 25 footer with a small cabin was powered by a heavy duty outboard engine, equipped with a GPS receiver and a radio. Olie was an older man who appeared to be in his 70's. He speaks only Inuktitut, and had Evan act as interpreter. I was thinking about how fascinating it is that here's a man who was probably born in an igloo, who as a young man could only travel out to sea in a kayak, and who now is piloting a boat equipped with a satellite receiver! All this within the span of some 50 years!
Our trip out on Hudson Bay was on calm water, and the ride was very smooth. There were beautiful clouds, some dark which mean squalls, like the one I was caught in the previous day. Olie has to check nets for beluga whales at Rabbit Island were they were put in a few days ago. When we arrive he sent Evan and Silu on the bow with harpoons, and the nets were empty, much to Olie's disappointment.
We then made our way to Marble Island and arrived in a few minutes. Its name denotes the color of its rock, white like marble, and it was the where the ill fated crew of an English shipwreck perished in the 1700's. Olie maneuvered the boat close to some large rocks that can make disembarking easier. The legend is that if this is your first trip here, you must crawl the first seven steps to avoid being cursed by the ghosts that haunt this island, so I'm the first off and immediately upon landing I dropped to my hands and knees and crawl the first seven steps. As this is everyone else's first trip too, all repeated this ritual.
John brought his pipe, and prepared it while the rest of us explored the island never loosing site of the boat that has Olie waiting on board. The island was hilly with large exposed rock, set in between the tundra. Before leaving we joined John in a pipe ceremony in honor of the ancestors whose spirits many still inhabit this island. Our trip back led us through one of those squalls which fortunately was short, and we made it back by 6:30 pm. Click here for scenes of Marble Island.
The next morning, Tuesday August 9th, John awakened with chest pains, and thought he must be having either a heart attack or stroke! Jen immediately called her mother Gerry who is a retired nurse and she arrived in a matter of minutes. We took John to the Health Center which is close by and were there within 5 minutes. As Gerry used to work at the facility she contacted the ER nurse and John was given immediate attention, with our prayers. Tests were run and a chest x-ray taken and the doctor diagnosed pneumonia, which Gerry and I were very relieved to hear. If he had either a heart attack or stroke, he'd would have had to be med-evaced to Winnipeg. We were also fortunate to be in Canada where medical treatment is free and you don't have to worry about insurance or the lack of it!
John is given a prescription for a strong antibiotic which we filled at the only pharmacy in town. He thought he may have caught the germs from the survival jacket he wore the previous day in the boat to Marble Island, for he said it smelled musty.
We returned to the Anawak's at about 10:00 am, and John went back to bed and slept for most of the day. I was able to access my email account with Jerry Anawak's lap top with internet connection, and immediately put out a prayer request for John's healing to our many friends all over the world. Later we received responses from many, which were shared with John, which perked up his spirit considerably.
Wednesday August 10th saw John sleeping most of the day again. In the morning I painted a little with watercolors and gave both Jimmy and Aiden some paper and brushes, and asked them to join me and have some fun. Jimmy seemed to do better at than Aiden.
I called Mike to see if he would join me for lunch at the Sugar Rush Cafe, and he agreed. On my way over I met a man coming from the other direction who asks if I knew of a souvenir shop. As the Sugar Rush has one in the same building, I invited him to walk with me. He was a tourist from Poland who was taking a cruise with about 20 others from Europe on tall ship that was anchored in the cove. Their tour began in Churchill and they were circumventing Hudson Bay. I mentioned the Faith, which he said he'd not heard of before.
At the restaurant, I asked Mike about Shamanism and to explain some of its mysteries. I found it fascinating that while it holds to existence of a spirit world, the concept of a Creator is not there. After lunch I did more walking and photography including a visit to the cemetery where I offered prayers to the Concourse.
On Thursday August 11 John was feeling better. Jen had to go to meetings at the school so John and I watched Jimmy and Aiden in the morning. We did painting again on the kitchen table. John felt well enough in the afternoon to go over to Mike's home for a visit. I went again with camera in hand and ended up at the Quick Stop, and who do I see there, but John. His visit with Mike didn't come about so he planned to go there the next day. We then went to the post office across the street and spent the afternoon writing postcards to family and friends back home.
After dinner, Gerry came over and she, Jen, John and I first had a round of prayers, and then talked. They explained that at one time Rankin Inlet had an Assembly, and about 10 years ago the community's spark plug, a school teacher named Heather Solomon passed away, and gradually others either moved away or lost interest in the Faith. They also mentioned that a travel teacher came through in the '70's and enrolled about 15, all of whom lost interest in the Faith as soon as the teachers left.
We moved on to talking about the institute process, and in particular, study circles. John mentioned that the circles do not have to be cut and dried book learning, but are interactive and can be adapted for Native Peoples. He brought up the recent stories that have appeared in the US Baha'i media about the Indian Clusters on Reservations that are involved in the institute process.
We ended the meeting by presenting gifts to Jen and Gerry, some personal items that once belonged to our departed friend Marda Rast, picture cards with Baha'i writings that were donated by a Baha'i in Kansas, a copy of Dexiny productions DVD "The promise of All Ages" and five copies of Ruhi Book One.
That night, while walking out on the tundra to photograph the sunset, Jimmy and I came across a caribou skin of a recently butchered animal. Also there was a jaw bone and hooves, and the next day I retrieved these items and put them in a garbage bag to take back home with me.
The next day, Friday August 12th, John and I watched the kids in the morning. In the afternoon John and Mike get together and solidified their friendship. John shared with Mike the story of his Grandmother, and how she was one of the founders of the very first Local Spiritual Assembly of indigenous Baha'is in the world in 1948 at the Omaha Reservation at Macy, Nebraska. Mike was taken with this, for that is the year of this birth.
I spent the afternoon walking around taking pictures again. I'm able to speak to several people in a friendly manner, and just say that I'm from the south visiting some Baha'i friends. Occasionally, someone might say that they know Gerry and Jen, but don't seem interested in having me speak about the Faith.
On Saturday, August 13 the last day in Rankin Inlet, Mike called wanting to take me out on the land on his Honda. John decided to spend the day resting, because he still tires easily despite good improvement in his health.
I've brought my camera with its 800 mm zoom lens with converter which boosts it up to 1600mm, great for shooting wildlife. Mikes had seen this lens earlier which I've named "big bertha." He wanted to take me out where there are sandhill cranes and the first thing he asked me he comes is, "You're bringing big bertha aren't you?"
We went about 7 or 8 klicks west of town, past the dump where the gravel road ends on the tundra. Mike explained as only the front axel was working properly, and as he hadn't gotten the rear fixed yet, we did not four wheel capability. So when we came upon a really wet area and got stuck in the mud, I had to get off while he got through. Then I had to walk through the mud to get back on the Honda.
Mike and I both share a keen interest in nature, and it is a favorite topic of his books. He took me to a hill top where the vista to the sea below was absolutely magnificent. I knew that he'd purposefully brought me there. We got off the honda and heard the sandhill cranes in the distance. Other than that it was absolutely quiet. One of the rock tables we approached had an inuksuk on it pointing in a direction back the way we came, so probably it meant "go this way to Rankin." We came across a circle of stones forming a ring, so we knew that someone long ago pitched a tent here, perhaps a lone hunter.
The day was sunny with a slight breeze so the misquotes couldn't land, and the sky was a bright azure blue with both wisps of high arctic clouds above and billows of cumulus near the horizon.
I was really overwhelmed by the beauty of this pristine place, and asked Mike to leave me alone for a few minutes so I could pray to the Creator. When I've finished and Mike and I meet again he tells me of the time when he was out hunting on the land and got lost. It was the dead of winter and he was walking in the snow with a storm coming and he prayed for the spirits to help him. He said that he heard voices telling him which way to go as he trod on, and was led back to safely. He said that he owes his life to those spirits that talked to him that day.
Mike has brought along a monopod, a one legged camera support when shooting with a telephoto, and he loaned to me. I snap "big bertha on the Nikon, screw on the monopod and headed in the direction of the sandhills we heard in the distance.
After photographing the sandhills Mike and I then made our way back to town, and of course the honda got stuck again meaning I had to get off while Mike drove through and I had to chase after him through the mud. Click here for pictures of this
I offered to treat Mike for lunch at the Sugar Rush. A good bowl of soup is just what we need after a morning like we had. While sitting there eating lunch I told him that 'Abdul-Baha had a prophecy about the native peoples of North America, that they had the capacity to illumine the world, and it was then that he raised his eyebrows in the classic Inuit expression of joy. I knew I had communicated with him. I thanked him for the trip out on the land, and told him I'd never forget it.
That night we were to be treated to a "last supper" before our flight at 7:50 pm to Baker Lake. All of us piled into the Jeep Cherokee with our luggage and make our way to the co-op. Our dinner was filled with fond good byes and promises to stay in touch. We bade farewell to Gerry and Mike with hugs as they weren't be going to the airport with us.
There John reached into his backpack to get gifts for Aiden and Jimmy. They were given to him to give to kids we met on our trip by Happy Waters, one of our team members who hopes to come to Nunavut next year. There's a little stuffed bear for Aiden, that he names "cowboy," and a piece of pipestone for Jimmy, that he can have fun carving. Finally the plane arrived, and hugs were shared all around. Jimmy started crying because he didn't want us to leave! It was with sadness that John and I made our way to the tarmac and on board.
Baker Lake, August 13-21
Our flight to Bake Lake was uneventful and only 40 minutes in length. When we landed at the small airport and we were greeted by a huge double rainbow in the sky! We met our hosts, Joe and Margaret Niego, and their little adopted three year old son, Sinni.
As we drove in their pickup with Joe and I in the back, we noticed two things immediately: the mosquitoes that are far worse than we experienced in Rankin, undoubtedly due to the very still air, and how clean the town is! Later we learned that each year in the spring, the hamlet has a clean up day.
Baker Lake is a hamlet of 1500, situated on the northwest corner of Baker Lake. It is at the geographical center of Canada, which is remarkable seeing how far north it's located. The lake is a large body of water which feeds the Chesterfield Inlet, which in turn empties into Hudson Bay. The hamlet of Baker Lake is 320 kilometers (200 miles) west of its coast.
The Kazan River feeds the lake from the south and it is here where the caribou cross during the migrations, and is where hunters in kayaks would catch them as they swim across the river. The hamlet dates to ancient times, and more recently was a trading center in the early 1900's for the Hudson Bay Trading Company. Yet it wasn't until the starvations of the late 1950's when the different Inuit tribes were taken in to the settlement that the population grew. This area of Kivalliq is the furthermost westerly point inland where the Inuit led their nomadic travels.
The town is obviously smaller that Rankin, but well ordered. Like Rankin it had many new buildings including a brand new high school. And one of the newest buildings was the Baha'i House, just completed this year. It's a beautiful nine sided structure that forms the meeting room which is very spacious and can easily seat over 100. Its nine laminated wood beamed arches meet at the center with a light embossed with the Baha'i Ring Stone Symbol hanging directly below. This room has adjoining rest rooms and a small kitchen and a separate wing consisting of three guest bedrooms, two baths and a large shared kitchen-dining-living room. John and I were elated with the accommodations which is a far cry from the cramped bedroom we shared at Rankin.
We knew from Beth McKenty in Iqaluit that the Baha'i House here had suffered a fire a few years ago, and that a new one had been built to replace it, but we had no way of imagining just how beautiful the new building actually was until we got here. Margaret told us that an electrical short was the cause of the fire that destroyed the old structure, and that the new building actually belongs to the NSA of Canada. The NSA owns two other Baha'i Houses in the other two regions of Nunavut as well. This really demonstrates the NSA's commitment to maintaining a Baha'i presence among the Inuit. Click here for pictures
The Niegos let us know that there is a Baha'i Assembly here in Baker
Lake with about 10 active believers. Some were out of town though. Margaret
asks us what we'd like to do for the next week. We told her we brought
a supply of Ruhi Book One with us and we could have a study circle Also,
I would be willing to have the children and youth in to do some art
classes. She mentioned that we could do a program at the elder's center,
but as Thursday was to be the start of the school year, she doubts that
she can schedule any classroom presentations. John and I offered to
hold a fireside, and we agreed that Thursday night would be fine. We
offered to host the next Baha'i Feast of Asma, and agreed to have it
on Saturday afternoon.
After they left, Johns and I offered Baha'i Prayers for our teaching work for the next week. Also we prayed for the continued healing of John's pneumonia.
Margaret arrived at 9:00 Sunday, August 14 and had little Sinni with her. She told us that Sinni is actually their grandson that they've adopted. Joe, we know has had a serious illness lately, but Margaret said he's much better, and the next week will be his first back to work in a while. Joe's been the Chief Conservation Officer for the region for quite some time, and has many responsibilities including granting hunting permits and visiting hunting camps.
Margaret then drove us off at the Nunamiut Lodge where John and I enjoyed a brunch sitting in the glass enclosed solarium over looking the lake. The sky was overcast, but there were no dark clouds on the horizon. There were a lot of tourists here. Some are probably here to fish for arctic char, trek out on hunting expeditions, or take guided excursions out on the land. We then walked back to the Baha'i House, about a ten minute trip. When we returned, John decided to rest while I explored with camera in hand.
The Baha'i House is on the northernmost street in town, and beyond is the wide open tundra. The town is sited on a hill with the low point at the lake front, and walking to the west and climbing higher, on a solid rock hill, I was able to get a pretty good panoramic view of the town. Also up there was an ancient archeological site, with its sign in a crevasse asking that all visitors respect this place.
Walking further down to the lake's shore and westerly along the town's main street, I passed several newer buildings, including the Health Center and the Elder's Center on opposite side of the street. The one thing that struck me is the absence of people outside, not like Rankin where hondas were speeding by all the time. Undecided which way to walk at the intersection I first turned to walk up the hill, but then changed my mind and turned around, took a few steps back and then turned on the main street again, While doing this I heard a voice calling "Are you lost?" I glanced in the direction that it came from, to see a nurse from the elder's center standing on the front deck smoking a cigarette. She smiled at me and asks again if I'm lost. I said no, but just undecided which way to walk. I said I was staying at the Baha'i House and was just walking around taking in the town. She said that she hoped that misquotes wouldn't bother me, and then we wished each other good day. This calling out to us, and just saying hello occurred a lot during the next week. Click here for scenes of Baker Lake
Margaret picked us up at 6:00 p.m. and we drove to their home, which is a large house on the on the eastern side of town right near the water. Their dining room has a large picture window looking over the lake, and the living room is large with a cathedral ceiling. On one wall is mounted a large polar bear skin and head that Joe had to kill in the line of duty a few years ago.
We joined by two brothers, David and John Kowtow, who are members of the Baha'i Community. So far, of the four members of the Community that we have met, three are Inuit. We also learned that the community is active holding the 19 Day Feast, Holy Day Observances, and the three core activities on a regular basis. We learned that there have been Ruhi Study Circles going on for quite some time, and that most in the community are involved.
Following dinner, Joe told some of his experiences as the game warden when he had to kill two arctic grizzlies that were marauding campsites a few years ago. A documentary film was made of the kill, which we watched. The story had gained the attention of biologists and scientists as these bears have just recently expanded their territory from the south, and had not wandered this far north before. Joe thinks that this might be due to global warming. He also let us know that we should keep a look out for these bears when on the land, as one was spotted last week near town.
Joe also told us stories of his ancestors, one about his grandfather who was an English miner who had prospected in the region and was one of the first white settlers here. He showed us a picture of him in a history book of the region. He also said that he and his family came into the hamlet as a result of the starvations.
The next morning, Monday, Margaret arrived about 9:00, and brought Sinni with her. She mentioned that Vivian Kowtow would like to meet us, so she called her. Soon Vivian came by with her three year old granddaughter Laura, who is David's daughter. We learned that Vivian's husband, Joe Kowtow and another son are working in a mine that is on the land, and that they live in a mining camp, returning infrequently. The mine, which just has been operating for a short time, is to extract gold from the tundra rocks, and is seen as an economic opportunity for the region. After a short visit, it was agreed that Sinni and Laura would come back for some art lessons, and that we'd start the next morning.
Margaret then took John, Sinni, and me to the Inuit Heritage Center,
which is nearby. It is a building was filled with exhibits, dioramas,
actual caribou skin tents, kayaks, and winter apparel nicely displayed.
It had an extensive library-research room and a book sales area. A
man whom I recognized as being on the same Calm Air Flight we were on
from Rankin introduced himself, and we learned that he as without traveling
companions so John and I decided to ask him to join us for dinner that
night, and he happily accepted.
The next place Margaret takes us is the Elder's Center, where we're
introduced to the director and offer to present a program with Native
American drumming if it can work into their schedule. We're asked to
return Friday at 1:00 pm for the presentation, as then is when a community
lunch for the elders is served, and we'd be assured of a good turn out.
Margaret then took us to the Okpiktuyuk Art Gallery, which is a both
a studio and gallery, mainly displaying soapstone carvings, although
there are also prints and wall hangings available. We had heard that
there are many local artists whose incomes are dependent upon selling
their work and that some have gained noted reputations in the global
art world. This gallery is the point of sale for many of these artists.
That afternoon, we stopped at the Vera Akumalik Visitor's Centre, which
is the old Hudson Bay Trading Post that was built in 1912 at a different
site and moved to its present location only recently. The building was
sawed in half and transported across the ice with a sled team of 90
dogs.
Another stop we made was the Jessie Oonark Centre, which is a co-op
where local artists also bring their wares for sale, and there is a
supply of sweaters, shirts, and other souvenir apparel available. Its
while visiting here that the manager, Paul Kabloona and I struck up
a conversation: I found him friendly and not put off when hearing that
we're staying at the Baha'i House.
At 5:00 I started to prepare dinner. John suggested that I do all the
cooking as he wasn't that good at it. Stan Burk, the man we asked for
dinner, arrived at six and dinner was ready. He told us that he's a
computer programmer from Colorado Springs, and just decided to take
a trip to a faraway, cold place by himself. He was only going to be
here through Wednesday, and was staying at the only bed and breakfast
in the hamlet. He liked the accommodations and said the proprietor was
friendly with a wealth of information. John and I brought up the Faith
and mentioned why we were there, but our guest, while polite, didn't
seem too interested.
Then we got a phone call from a lady asking if we'd like to purchase
something that she had made, so we invite her over. She had become friends
with the two young women that had stayed the summer at the Baha'i House.
When she arrived, she showed us the tapestry that she made, and I offer
to buy it for it was a modest cost and it would help her out. She said
that she's tired and hungry, and as we had plenty of chicken left over,
we offer her a meal, which she gratefully accepted. When she got ready
to leave, she said that if people see her coming to the Baha'i House
so much, they'll think that she is one of us. We let her know that she
could do a lot worse.
The next morning, August 16, Margaret and Vivian brought Sinni and Laura
over, and I did art with them on the newspapers spread over the kitchen
table. Sinni really got into it and painted a puppy, which was very
good for a three year old. We tell Margaret and Vivian about our visitor
last night, and they said that the know her. Click
here for pictures
That afternoon John was tired and didn't want to venture out, so I returned
to the Inuit Cultural Center where I enjoyed studying the exhibits and
artifacts that we first took in the previous day. I spent a few hours
there, including time in the library-research room and there was an
Inuit woman using her lap top in the room with me. I attempted to strike
up a conversation with her by mentioning that I'm visiting friends and
staying at the Baha'i House, and that we're going to hold a small gathering
there Thursday night if she'd like to come. She answered tersely that
she was not interested, and said she thought one of the young men working
at the center might be a Baha'i, but she wasn't sure. My thoughts turned
to the bias that many have about the Faith, and how this lady might
be affected by it.
Before I left, I purchased the book "Inuit Nunamuit: Inland Inuit,"
an oral history of the nomadic way of life actually experienced by the
people during the starvations of the 1950's. Many of these people are
alive today, and are the hamlet's elders. I was assisted with the purchase
by a young Inuit man, who introduced himself as Moses, who was one of
the center's docents. When I mentioned I was staying at the Baha'i House,
his reaction was pleasant. I told that we were going to have a program
there Thursday night, he reacted positively.
I stopped by the High School a little before 4:00 pm, and visited the
public library which is near the front entrance of the building. It's
the only place in town where the public is granted access to the internet.
While the Baha'i House does have a pc, it's not hooked up yet, and as
the Niegos do not have one, the library is where we had to check our
emails. The librarian told me you first have to reserve a time to use
one of the five computers, and it's on a first-come-first-served basis,
and can be used for 20 minutes at a time. I only waited about ten minutes,
however, when one became free. I accessed my email and found several
messages from the friends regarding John; I jot them down so that I
can tell him about them. One message is from a friend pioneering in
China!
Tonight I fixed pork steaks for dinner, and David and John Kowtow arrived
at six. We enjoyed he meal and David tells us that he was at the Centenary
Observance of the Baha'u'llah's passing in 1992 at the invitation of
the Universal House of Justice. He also told us that their father, Joe,
was at the dedication of the Terraces at Mt. Carmel in May of 2001 as
the representative of the Inuit people, again at the invitation of the
House of Justice.
On Wednesday morning, August 17th, Margaret arrived at nine and wanted
to take us out on the land. We eagerly accepted her offer. Just outside
of town, we traveled along a bumpy gravel road going east seeing many
cabins along the way, including one that they own, but she had forgotten
the key.
A little farther out we began to see many inuksuit. We asked Margaret
to stop at a few of these, including one that marked several white stone
rocks used by the ancients to chip flint for the napping of arrow heads
and spear points. There was napping debris all around this inuksuit.
John and I can only surmise that it was very old, perhaps going back
thousands of years. One can only imagine how the ancient hunters came
here to make the tools necessary for their survival.
Further along the road, we saw in the distance, another inuksuit on
the top of a very high hill. It could be seen from a long way off. Margaret
suggested that we take it in on our way back, so we continued on. Eventually
we reached the Prince River, and we're a good 20 klicks from town. Margaret
tells us that the government spent a million dollars to build a bridge
that literally leads to nowhere. It crossed the river; on the opposite
embankment the road ends. The hunters use it to take their hondas and
skidoos further out on the land. Margaret told us that the bridge used
to be wooden, but was constantly collapsing, undoubtedly due to the
freeze-thaw cycles and the bridges span, which is well over 25 meters.
So the government built a new bridge out of steel and concrete. We were
a bit amused to see that sign that warns not to go across if your vehicle
weighs over 3 metric tons!
We parked and crossed the bridge on foot. The Prince River is fast and
free flowing as it cascades over the rocks, creating white water. Although
shallow, it appears as if you would wade in it at some risk, due to
the current. John and I made our way to the waters' edge, and John was
really taken with it. He was the first to dip his cupped hand into the
stream to taste the water followed suit by me. It is very pure and tastes
like something you'd get out of a bottle these days. It has to be literally
one of the world's last few unspoiled waterways.
Off in the distance we saw the inuksuit on the hill we just passed,
just a little spot in the distance, but still discernable. We can see
why they are such vital way signs on the tundra, first built by the
ancients, but still useful today as a means of finding your way around
the tundra's vast wilderness.
We then returned to the pickup, and make our way back stopping below
this inuksuit. John was tired form the morning's trip and decided to
stay in the truck. Margaret, Sinni, and I got out and start climbing
the hill which was at least 100 meters high. Once at the top, we see
why it was placed there, for off in the distance to the south we saw
the blue water of Baker Lake. The inuksuit is tall over 3 meters, and
I stay for some prayers as Margaret and Sinni walk down to the truck.
On our way back into town, a pair of sandhill cranes swooped directly
in front of the truck. It was an exciting moment. John told us that
they'll migrate all the way down to Nebraska where he's seen them in
the winter.
We drop John off at the Baha'i House as he's tired. I asked Margaret
to drive me to the airport so that I could shoot the tall inuksuit in
human form that's there. Following that she took me to the cemetery
where I spend a few minutes with the camera. Click
here for pictures
That afternoon, Margaret came to take us grocery shopping again. Then
we stopped at the Jessie Oonark Centre to purchase some clothing and
gifts to take back to our families back south. An artist named Basil
came in with a soapstone carving he's named "The Hunter."
He was asking $100 cnd for it which is far less that what similar pieces
were selling for at the gallery we visited previously. I liked the piece
so I bought it with the debit credit card, which Paul the manager runs
through without a mark up, although he did have to charge sales tax.
That evening we get a phone call from Beth McKenty in Iqaluit. After
we exchanged greetings Beth says, "We hope that by now you know
why we wanted you to go to Rankin Inlet." We replied that the reason
was made very clear to us as soon as we got there, and that is to provide
much need moral support to Jen and Gerry. She asked about how the trip
was going and we told her about John's illness. She said she would pray
for his health. She asked about how the Baker Lake believers were doing,
and we gladly informed her that this community is very much well and
active. She said that the committee was very interested in our progress,
and we promised that we'd keep her informed.
Shortly after we finished talking to Beth, our own Linda Covey called,
wanting to know how John was doing. Likewise Linda was sending her prayers,
and has gotten connected with our Native American email network asking
for not only prayers for John's health, but also for the continued success
of our trip.
Later after dinner, John was again saying that he wasn't feeling well,
so I wondered if he should be taken into the health center right away.
He said no, but I called for an appointment for first thing in the morning,
and then called Margaret to let her know that we need her to come at
eight to take us to the clinic. John asks for prayers, so I offer the
long healing prayer. Although he was still somewhat discomforted he
went to bed early and was able to sleep.
At eight on Thursday morning, August 18, Margaret came to take us to
the Health Center. After a short wait, John was taken to the exam room
and returned about a half hour later. The doctor said that he was feeling
the residual effects of the pneumonia and he should be doing better
soon. This was great news, which relieved us greatly.
John stayed in for most of the day, while I ventured out again with camera in hand. I stopped again at the Inuit Cultural Center, found Moses and said that I wanted to meet an artist named Simon Tookoome, whose children's book "The Shaman's Nephew" I had read at the Anawaks. Moses volunteered (actually it was part of his job) to take me to meet him the next morning and act as the interpreter. Apparently as Simon is such a well known artist that special courtesies are in place for those who want to visit him. Moses then called him, and we arranged to go over to his house at 10:00 the next morning.
When I returned to the
Baha'i House, John said he felt well enough to go to the library to
check emails. A few more messages have come in, and I showed John the
ones that I have from our friends that have been praying for this health.
The Niego family arrived right at seven that evening and after waiting
a little while for others, who do not show, John explains a little about
his Omaha heritage, and how he found the Baha'i Faith. When it's my
turn to talk, I explained that although I'm a white guy, I've got a
deep respect and admiration for Native peoples and their spirituality,
and really felt that 'Abdul-Baha was right when he said that they had
the capacity to "illumine the world."
Following these remarks, we began to drum and sing in the traditional
way. John led us in chanting "Ya Bahá'u'l-Abhá"
set to the rhythm of his drum. I accompanied him with my turtle rattle.
This same song was sung by those on the Spirit Run in 2000, when a group
of Native American Baha'i Youth transversed the upper tier of the US
from Washington State to New York, literally from the west coast to
the east, and stopped at many reservations and American Indian centers
along the way.
John then suggested that we watch part of a video he'd brought of a
Baha'i sponsored gathering in the Black Hills a few years ago. It shows
all people expressing their thoughts about unity and the Native concept
of the sacred hoop and of the four colors of mankind. Although the hoop
has been broken, it is now the time for its mending, and this coincides
with the Teachings of Baha'u'llah.
After the video, we served refreshments to our guests. We agreed that
Margaret should have the next morning off. We thanked her for all she'd
done for us, carting us everywhere and seeing to our every need.
The next morning, Friday, August 19, I met Moses at the Inuit Cultural
Center. We walk the short distance to Simon Tookoome's house, and he
asked how the meeting went last night. I was surprised that he remembered
my invitation to come to the Baha'i House. He said that he couldn't
come because he had to attend a meeting about securing a house in the
hamlet, where his sons could stay with him when it is his time to have
them. I gathered from this that he was divorced at that his ex-wife
and that she lives elsewhere and his sons visit him infrequently.
Moses told me that besides being an artist Simon is a well respected elder in the region and serves as a Justice of the Peace at Baker Lake. His home was modest, with the kitchen and living room as one space with a drawing table against one wall and a sofa on another. The walls were lined with photographs and his drawings which are done with colored pencil on high quality print making paper. Also hanging on the wall were many medals; awards that he'd won over the years.
I "broke the ice" by first telling him that I admire his work, and tell him that I'm also an artist. I presented him with a gift of my print of the piece titled "The Oneness of Mankind." I presented this in the spirit of one admiring artist to another and he seemed genuinely touched by this gesture from a total stranger. When I explain that it was inspired by a writing of the Baha'i Faith that says "Know ye not why We created you from the same dust? That no one should exalt himself over the other," he said that he believes that too. It was good to see that even though he is a practicing Catholic as evidenced by the crucifix and rosary beads hung on his wall, he had an open mind to listen to what I have to convey, through my art and words.
When I mention that there is only one Creator for us all, and that all men are brothers, he nodded in agreement. We talk about the power of prayer, and he told me how his and his family's prayers were answered and they were saved long ago when the caribou were scarce and many starved to death. He told me how his art encompasses the sprit of his beliefs, even going back to Shamanism which he said not many practice any longer.
I asked him if it were possible to get a copy of The Shaman's Nephew here in Baker Lake. He told me that it isn't sold here, but is available through the publisher in Toronto. He talked about his life as a young man living with his family on the land, and the struggles they faced just to survive. But I could tell that he's content with his present way of life, and that he wrote the book so that young people today would have an appreciation of what their elders went through many years ago. This very much reminds me of Michael Kusugak's work too, trying to tell the stories of the time of his youth.
He brought out a carving that he was working on, and it's of four different heads all coming from a single source, a kind of common pillar of stone from which all emanate. This too has the essence of what my art is about, and he can see it in the piece I've just given him, that of many from one, all united together.
He told me although in the summertime he mainly works at his cabin on the land, he's brought this particular piece home with him to work on here, and I wondered if that was because he was supposed to show it to me. Asked what he wishes to sell it for, he said $600, and although I liked it a lot, it was beyond my means.
One drawing, of many faces in profile radiating in circular fashion caught my eye. He told me it was about the "essence of meeting" when the hunters talked about the next hunting locales. The piece reminded me of the spirit of Baha'i consultation, and after he mentioned that his livelihood depended the sale of his art, I asked the price which falls into the range I can afford. I told him that I'd find a way to purchase the piece.
As we were leaving,
he told me he'd put my piece up in his house and think of me every time
he sees it. I let him know that I will do the same when seeing his piece
in my own home "down south." He also says that he'll have
his daughter translate the quote that, represents the piece that's on
the back, which is the "Hidden Word." We part as friends and
I told him that I'd keep in touch. Click
here for pictures
Walking back to the Cultural Center, I thanked Moses for being our interpreter
and we exchanged cards. I let him know that I'll write to him from down
south and he and I parted as friends also.
I returned to
the Baha'i House and had a quick lunch. Margaret came for us at quarter
to one. I told her about my experience with Simon and got the impression
from her that the Baha'is really didn't know him that well. I suggested
that it might be a nice gesture to host a showing of his art at the
Baha'i House, which she thought might be a good idea.
John and I put on our ribbon shirts, and got the drum and rattle ready.
We drive to the Elder's Center, and walked in. There were about 30 at
the tables, having just finished lunch. They all clapped as John and
I enter, easily recognizing us by our ribbon shirts. A young man came
forward and introduced himself as Abraham.
He acted as our interpreter, and John began by saying that we're from
the south and that he is of the Omaha Tribe, and I am of the white race.
He explains that we were here visiting friends, and that we came here
to share our drumming with them. We began the same chant to music that
we did last night, Ya Bahá'u'l-Abhá! We did this several
times, and the elders are really into this with us, chanting and singing
along too! We do this for a while and then stop. John asks me to say
a few words, and I tell them how glad we are to be here, and how we
appreciated the honor of coming to them. When they heard this they clapped
with enthusiasm, but when I told them that we had been staying at the
Baha'i House, they became suddenly quiet. It seems that the bias is
here with these elders.
Then one asked about my rattle, and I told them that it was a gift from
my brother, and is a turtle shell with a shaft of wood carved to be
an eagle. They seemed very eager to look at it, so I gave it to them
to examine and pass around. Then some one asked about my medicine pouch,
and I took it off and took out the green crystal that's inside. I told
them that the crystal is used in a good way for healing for it concentrates
energy, and I think that it came from Brazil. They wanted to see this
too, and again I gave it to them to examine and pass around. We could
tell by the expressions on their faces that they were happy to look
at these things, and as it takes some time for all of them to touch
and feel these objects, we just let it occur.
They all nodded to us and clapped enthusiastically when it was time
to go. John and I were happy too, that we made them happy. In thinking
about how this all happened, it occured to me that even though they
were cool to us staying at the Baha'i House, for then they knew that
we were Baha'is, that we showed them that we weren't devil worshipers.
We did definitely leave a positive impression.
We returned to the Baha'i House and changed clothes. John decided to
stay in, and I left for the Jessie Oonark Center to make arrangement
about paying for Simon's drawing. I met with Paul the manager and after
a phone call to Simon who wasn't in he said he call me at the Baha'i
house after he'd gotten the print from Simon that afternoon.
Paul's call came at 4:30 and I walked back to the Oonark Center where
he has the print. Before I left I thanked Paul for all he'd done and
gave him with a print of my water color, 'The Human Family.' He is touched
to receive this gift, and asked me about it. I told him it's about how
all mankind is essentially related. There's a quote from 'Abdul-Baha
taped to the back of the mat he read and understood. By that time it's
was after 5:00 and he has to close up for the weekend, and we bid our
farewells.
The next day, August 20th, was our last at Baker Lake. The only thing
we were doing is hosting the Baha'i Feast of Asma. Aside from walking
to the Northern to get a few last minute things, it was a pretty leisurely
morning. I noticed how warm it was when I'm out, and that the mosquito
swarms are very bad. This is due to the very still air, and the fact
that repellent doesn't work with so many of them.
At one in the afternoon Vivian Kowtow arrived for the Feast bringing
Laura. Margaret arrived with Sinni. Joe, overdid it yesterday when he
was called to go to the opposite end of the lake via boat to pick up
a hunter who had fallen ill and needed to come back to town. Apparently
he got really worn out doing this especially after his illness, and
just needed to rest.
For the Feast's devotional portion, we offered prayers for teaching,
and read selections from the writings that are on the photo cards we
brought with us, and John and I concluded with another drumming and
signing another rendition of Ya Bahá'u'l-Abhá!
As the chair of the Assembly was not present, no one had any items to
bring up, John and I thank the Baker Lake Community for their hospitality
for the past week, especially Margaret who gave us so much of her time.
We shared our teaching efforts with them and suggested that the community
might want to host an exhibition of Simon Tookoome's art at the Baha'i
House. Margaret also told us that the Catholics are coming to use the
meeting room for a study group of their own, and she said that there
are warm relations between the two Faiths.
John and I presented some gifts for the community; 10 copies of Ruhi
Book One, a full set of the picture cards with the writings that we
used during the Feast, a copy of Dexiny Productions DVD "The Promise
of All Ages" and my print of the "Oneness of Mankind."
We also give them copies of the Baha'i magazine and Margaret said she'd
give them to the Hamlet's library.
Sinni and Laura have been fascinated by John's drum so he invited both
to take the drum stick and beat on the drum as he held it. Both kids
really got involved with this, and I able to record it on film. I was
thinking that these pictures will show to the Baha'i world that the
call of the Universal House of Justice for Native American believers
to travel teach to the circumpolar regions was fulfilled, a member of
the Omaha Nation playing with two Inuit children. Click
here for pictures
We then adjourned for the social part of the Feast with ice cream and
cookies, and following that bade farewell to Vivian and Laura. Margaret
said she'd be back for us at 7:00 am the next day to get us to the airport
in time for our 8:00 flight to Winnipeg.
For the remainder of the afternoon I ventured out for the last time
to take pictures. But before I go out, I put on the mosquito netted
shirt and head covering that we found in the front closet.
It was unusually warm out, my guess is around 80 degrees Fahrenheit!
For the entire time we were either in Rankin Inlet or Baker Lake the
temperature seemed like it never got above 60 degrees F, and the coldest
it got was perhaps 30 degrees F at night. There was only one time when
I had to put on my winter jacket. It's very warm days such as this,
when I'm wearing a short sleeve shirt and sweating, that bring to mind
the concern for global warming. Even though this was the Arctic's summer,
and we were only 150 miles south of the Arctic Circle, we're told that
the temperature should seldom rise above 65 degrees F.
The next morning Margaret came exactly at 7:00. On the trip to the airport
a large arctic hare hopped across the street in front of us, which really
was the only sign of life as the streets were deserted. At the airport
we unloaded quickly and checked in at the counter verifying our e tickets
for Calm Air flight 7540. The clerk at the counter surprised us by asking
how it went at the Elder's center the other day? We responded "it
was great!" although we can't remember meeting her before.
Margaret had to get back home, so we bade her a fond farewell with hugs,
and again thanked her for all she'd done for us. We promised to stay
in touch.
Back To Winnipeg and Home
The flight to Rankin Inlet was smooth aboard the turbo prop Sabb 340
B. Looking out the window you really got an idea on how large Baker
Lake actually is. As we got further east you could clearly see Chesterfield
Inlet as it flows from the lake to Hudson Bay.
We landed in Rankin Inlet, and were asked to deplane. When we entered
the airport we met Gerry Pfluger! She gave us a frozen arctic char for
us to give to Mead Simon and a few other items to take back with us
including a CD of the Virtues for Children. Our flight was called, and
we bade farewell to her with hugs.
The flight route went from Rankin to Arivat, where we made a stop to
board passingers with the right engine running, and then took off again.
In about an hour we landed in Churchill and upon our approach I was
trying to see the tree line which Mike Kusugak told us was visible right
here at the airport. As we touched down coming in from over the water
I'm able to make out a few very scrawny conifers on our approach. We
had to deplane for a 20 minute stopover, and I detour slightly to get
close to photograph one of these trees which looks exactly as Mike said
it would, its north side bare due to the howling winter winds coming
from that direction. In the terminal a huge polar bear skin and head
was in a large glass case. I took a picture of John standing next to
it to give a sense of scale.
The flight was called again, and an hour and half we are into Winnipeg.
Again I photographed out the window where I could make out some interesting
features including a wide swath of road cut into the tundra which may
well be an ice highway that's used only in the winter for large trucks
to trek to places like Yellowknife.
Mead met us at the airport as we arrive right on time at 1:15 pm. On the way to his house, Mead tells us that at the Winnipeg Feast the other night, there was an offer made by a Baha'i to deputize travel teachers, and immediately he thought of going to Nunavut. Winnipeg would be the perfect point of origin for teachers going to Kivalliq Region and he already knows Jen Anawak and Gerry Pfluger, plus some Baha'is in Arivat.
We arrived at the Simon house, and found Marielle getting ready for the social pot luck they're hosting, although most of the work has been done and we were just waiting for all the guests (40 were invited) to arrive in a few hours. They had a smoked arctic char ready and already starting to nibble on it. Of course we all partook.
After a while the guests arrived for the potluck social and the large living-dining room of the Simon house filled up fast. Eventually some forty people literally representing the diversity of mankind arrived. People from Sieria Leone, Iran, Europe and even Russia were present, and most were Baha'is. We enjoyed some parlor games and a sack race. This party is just a perfect ending for our trip. Click here for pictures
The next morning,
August 22nd, we offered prayers for a safe and uneventful trip home.
As the flight didn't leave until 12:43, we spent part of the morning
visiting, taking pictures and exchanging gifts. I gave my last print
of the 'Oneness of Mankind' to Mead and Marielle, and she in turn gave
us each copies of her cd titled Ombre / Shadow (Waters of Certitude),
which features her clarinet music.
The flight back to Chicago O'Hare was uneventful, and arrives on time. John and I shared a late lunch at a restaurant before heading for the departure gates for the flights back to our respective homes. We bade each other good by with hugs, and promises to stay in touch.
Epilogue
It is very apparent to both John and me that the more exposure the people of Nunavut have to Baha'is visiting their hamlets the less the Faith is going to be viewed negatively by the people who live there. We learned a lot about the people and their culture on this trip, and are amazed that just two generations ago the people were nomads completely living off the land and sea. Even now hunting for food is an important part of their way of life, and this must be respected. While the influences from the south have had an impact on their way of life, and addictions and teen suicide have become rampant in some parts of Nunavut, we did not hear much about these social diseases in this region. What we did see were strong family ties valued, with roots to Christianity. It's good to see the Baker Lake Community interacting with the Catholics for example, and to see that gradually the prejudices about the Baha'i Faith are being broken down as evidenced by our visit to the Elders Center.
In talking with Mead Simon in Winnipeg, he told us that now there are six in the Winnipeg Community that are deputized to travel teach in the Kivalliq Region, and that the their offers are being considered by the Nunavut Teaching Committee.
As for now, John and I intend to keep in touch with our friends in both Rankin Inlet and Baker Lake, and offer our assistance from afar through the power of prayer. If it's the Will of the Creator, we will return again to fulfill the desires of the Beloved Master 'Abdul-Baha:
"Should you display an effort, so that the fragrances of God may be diffused among the Eskimos, its effect will be very great and far-reaching. God says in the great Qur'án: A day will come wherein the lights of unity will enlighten all the world. "The earth will be irradiated with the light of its Lord." In other words, the earth will become illumined with the light of God. That light is the light of unity. "There is no God but God." The continent and the islands of Eskimos are also parts of this earth. They must similarly receive a portion of the bestowals of the Most Great Guidance.
(Abdu'l-Baha, Tablets of the Divine Plan, p. 28)